Category Archives: Travel

Travel // California Trip 2011 – Part 2

Click here to read part 1!

Wednesday

Sonoma

We took our time that morning figuring out which Sonoma wineries would be best to visit and tried to remember the good tips from Tracy and Kasey the night before. Kelly printed out maps for us while Marc highlighted the wineries. We were off to Sonoma to do some wine tasting and spend the night at the amazing Gaige House.

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Our initial plan was to stop in Glen Ellen for lunch, which was near the hotel and then head up one hour north to a few wineries in Healdsburg. It was a grand plan, but both The Fig Cafe and The Glen Ellen Inn were both closed for lunch that Wednesday. Marc was hungry, but we drove toward Healdburg while I was searching like crazy on my phone for a casual place to eat once we arrived. Just about that time, I received an e-mail telling me that I had exceeded my data plan. How did people travel before iPhones?

Ravenous

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Remembering a post from Hither and Thither on their trip to Napa and Sonoma, I searched it out and saw that they had lunch at Ravenous. I quickly checked their online menu for items we both would like and it was perfect timing, because we were just entering Healdsburg. I typed in the address for Ravenous and we were there in minutes.

The weather was beautiful and we sat on the colorful back patio. The bread and butter was incredible. Slightly crispy outside, tender inside and fresh creamy butter.

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Marc ordered the burger with oven fries and I ordered poached shrimp tacos with handmade tortillas. It was a wonderful lunch. Marc couldn’t say enough good things about the burger. I had a bite and it was melt-in-your-mouth delicious. I loved the oven fries, too. Mine was the light lunch I was looking for, but it was love at first bite with that burger.

Ferrai-Carano Winery

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Kelly recommended this winery because of the beautiful grounds and it was a nice introduction to the area. Inside we tasted a few wines and the lady that was pouring recommended the wine tasting downstairs that showcased their finest wines. Once we agreed that the most expensive “upstairs” wine was our favorite, she recommended the other tasting, again. We decided to check it out, noticing that our time was running low before most wineries were closing.

We met another nice person in the downstairs tasting room and we did enjoy the wines significantly more. Of course, right? We purchased a bottle of their 2007 Tresor wine which was collectively our favorite. I made a comment about the Lancome Tresor perfume and she thanked me for knowing the brand of perfume because she hears that comment often, but nobody seems to know the manufacturer. I immediately felt bad, realizing that she must hear that comment too often.

J. Vineyards and Winery

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Both Kasey and Tracy mentioned that J. was their favorite Sonoma winery and we made sure to make it there before it closed. Again, the grounds were very beautiful. Their tasting room was closed due to some redecorating, so the wine tasting was set up on the patio.

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We enjoyed the wines here and it was relaxing to sit on the patio. At this point, I tried looking for the restroom and they sent me to the Rodney Strong winery next door. The restrooms were occupied, so I had to wait a few minutes and one of the guys that worked there asked if J. Winery was overwhelmed or what was happening. Awkward. He was very nice and said he didn’t mind that I was there, but apparently nobody told them what was going on. I headed back to J. where we finished our wine tasting and purchased their Chardonnay to share with our friends later. The wine tasting fee and wines were on the more expensive side, but it was a nice experience.

Gaige House

After a few glasses of wine and a fair amount of driving, we were ready to settle into our hotel. Tracy had recommended it on her blog and it sounded like just what we needed.

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We were briefed by the front desk on how things operate and shown where the dangerous tin of homemade cookies resides. There was at the cheese and wine reception, but they handed us a bottle of wine and showed us where the cheeses were. We had a bit of cheese while we looked at their DVD collection and took one of each kind of cookie back to our room.

Marc was especially blown away by our room because he hadn’t seen Tracy’s post. The evening had gotten cooler, so we flipped on the fireplace. It was so relaxing. Right about that time I started to feel sick. I was coming down with a cold and combined with the wine, driving, and cookies, it just wasn’t a good time for me.

Marc really wanted to try out the pool or at least the hot tub before it closed and I hoped the hot tub would help me feel better. The hot tub was relaxing and we sipped cucumber water that was available in the pool area. We had planned to eat dinner in Glen Ellen, so I rested for a little bit knowing I really wanted to try the nearby restaurants and not spoil our evening.

The Fig Cafe

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Both The Fig Cafe and Glen Ellen Inn were open for dinner and a short walk from the Gaige House. The hotel provides flash lights for the walk and we didn’t take one, but I would recommend doing so. The way back was pretty dark and there isn’t much shoulder on the road. We made it there and back fine, though.

When we arrived, The Fig Cafe was full and buzzing. We looked at both menus and felt The Fig Cafe’s food excited us a bit more (but it was a hard choice!), so we stepped in and were seated in a few minutes.

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The fresh and casual menu perked me up and we were ready to order. The carrot orange soup special sounded quite good and the  mussels and fries sounded great, too. I enjoyed the bright seasonal soup and they gave us a crazy amount of mussels. We counted 41 mussels, no joke. After the cup of soup, I ate a few mussels and fries and my body was telling me to chill out. If  only I could go back right now!

We headed back to our room and rented The Graduate to watch from the hotel’s movie collection. Neither of us had seen it before. I fell asleep about half-way through, but that was one restful night’s sleep.

Thursday

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The next morning I woke up feeling much better and we headed to the main house for breakfast. We ate outside, but were quickly greeted by bees that wanted our fruit and juice. We kept debating whether we should go in or not, but we just decided to stay on the patio and enjoy the view of the grounds. I had homemade granola, strawberries and assorted pastries. Marc had smoked ham, swiss cheese and croissants. Everything was delicious. It was sadly time to say goodbye to the Gaige House.

B.R. Cohn Winery

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Our friend at Ferrari-Carano recommended the B.R. Cohn winery and it was close to The Gaige House. The manager of the Doobie Brothers owns this winery and in addition to their wines, they also make olive oil and vinegar. We liked their wines and the service was friendly.

The atmosphere is casual and fun with music memorabilia on the walls. We purchased their Pinot Noir that tasted just like blackberries, but had a nice dry quality. We shared that bottle with our friends later and we were glad they liked it, too. The guy that was pouring suggested we head to Imagery just a short drive away and it sounded good to us.

See the specks of red wine on our tasting menu? The guy next to me tried to spit out some wine and well, that happened.

Imagery Winery

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We had a wonderful time at Imagery and I feel it was our favorite overall. The girl there made us feel at home and poured us lots of wine. I was trying to take it easy and just sipped a bit from Marc’s tasting, but with all of those pours, I’m not sure how easy I was taking it. We enjoyed many of their wines and found her suggestions helpful because they had lots to choose from. She told us that most wines from 2008 have a smoky flavor due to the wild fires. How interesting!

Every year they change the art on their bottles and use different artists to design the labels. We purchased their 2009 Sangiovese and 2007 Petite Sirah Port from Paso Robles. We also really liked their 2007 Petit Verdot, which she said was rare because not many wineries make a 100% Petit Verdot wine. We were visualizing the space in our suitcase and could not purchase any more wine there knowing we had another winery to go.

She sent us to their sister winery, Benziger, with a free tasting coupon and it was great because we were already planning a trip there.

Benziger

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We did a tasting and then took a tour of the vineyards at Benziger. The grounds are gorgeous! Marc loved the tractor and had the biggest smile on his face as we were being toted around the vineyard. On the tour we learned how much they care about the health of their vines and find natural ways of growing their crops and warding off pests while keeping the integrity of the end product.

The girl in the tasting room was super nice and encouraged us to try out the tour if we had the time and we’re glad we did to get a better view of their beautiful vineyard. After the tour you get a few tastings in the tasting room, but we had already done the tasting before the tour. Unsolicited, our friend in the tasting room offered to get us some wines from their special pinot noir tasting menu. She told us that many of their French guests gravitate towards the pinot noir. We enjoyed their wines and purchased a 2007 Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon.

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We headed back to our friends’ house and spent time with these adorable kids until dinner time. Kelly, knowing Marc’s weakness for In-N-Out, thought we could head there for dinner.

In-N-Out

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We got in the car and headed to the In-N-Out in Pleasanton for that special California treat. Marc likes the double double animal style with animal style fries. I went for Kris’ recommendation of animal style minus the spread with ketchup.

Friday

Homeroom

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I’m a fan of Allison’s blog and as soon as she and her friend opened Homeroom, I wanted to go. Knowing the quality of the food on her blog, I had a feeling that Homeroom would be special. I love the look and theme of the restaurant.

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Kris took a half day and met us at Homeroom for lunch. Allison’s partner, Erin seated us in a booth and we were ready for some comfort food. We ordered strawberry limeades and Marc ordered a local beer. We all ordered different kinds of mac and cheese and promised to share. When I receive my gooey Mac the Goat with a combination of goat and aged cheddar with buttery breadcrumbs on top, I regretted offering to share. Everyone’s mac and cheese was good, though.

Marc had the Mexican Mac with chorizo, Kelly had the Gilroy with aged cheddar and garlic and Kris went classic with aged white cheddar mac. Kate had the Little Mac with a mild cheddar that tastes like a far superior version to Kraft, but just as palatable to kids. I asked Marc and Kelly which was their favorite and they both said the one they ordered. I felt the same way.

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I highly recommend the food. It was comfort food with local ingredients carefully chosen to make it the best it could be. Our waiter was having a bad day and said as much, but the other server seemed quite good and even helped out when we needed some assistance.

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The strawberry limeade really hit the spot and that homemade oreo was so, so good with just a sprinkle of sea salt on top. One of the best things I had on our trip, for sure. I ordered the strawberry crisp and Kelly and I shared our desserts with each other. The crisp was light and tasty, but that oreo!

Saturday

Scottish Festival

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Kelly is part Scottish and suggested heading to the Scottish festival on Saturday for some unique entertainment. They said it was a fun time and it sounded like great people watching.

They had a bag pipe competition where judges listened and scored each group. You don’t get to hear bagpipes every day and it was a treat.

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Probably the best part, though, was the caber toss that just seems ridiculous, but is fascinating! There were other Highland games like rugby and weight over bar (people throwing bell-shaped steel over their head).

They also had different booths set up with information on the different clans by family name. Kelly spent some time at the McDonald booth and was pleased to find some new information on her heritage.

Acapulco

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Our friends love Acapulco and regularly order their authentic Mexican food. We had to make a trip before we left, so we picked it up to-go and had a relaxing last evening with our friends. We cracked open some Sonoma wine, too.

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Sunday-Monday

Sideboard

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For our last breakfast in California, I asked Kelly for a recommendation. She wondered if we might like Sideboard and that coincided with positive reviews from Foodspotting.

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We loved the fresh food. Marc had a smoked bacon and aged cheddar scramble and I had poached eggs on levain. We were a bit rushed because we wanted plenty of time to return our car and settle at the airport. I wish I could have relaxed there more, especially considering our flight was eventually delayed. It’s a nice little spot and Danville is very pretty, too. Next time we’ll have to go back.

Heading Home

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Marc carefully packed our 5 bottles of wine we acquired in Sonoma and we ended up with a 67.5 pound suitcase. Whoa. Marc was excited to use a rolling technique he learned from a guy online that teaches travelers how to use one carry-on bag efficiently for a week-long trip. We definitely did not take all of his advice, but Marc rolled to his heart’s content. I was praying that the wine would not break and leave us with no wine and ruined clothing. Thankfully, Marc is a master packer.

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We had a wonderful time in California and it was over all too quick. Our 3 pm flight turned into a 5:30 flight that missed our connection and we unexpectedly ended up in Dallas for a quick night’s nap and an early flight back to Detroit.

We became well acquainted with the San Jose aiport and I picked up a book and Marc made sure to stock up on Scientific American and Popular Mechanics. I was so proud of myself for packing snacks and not resorting to airport food at that point, but the delay forced us to go there. We made it through and have wonderful memories of the food and good times we had that week.

Thank you Keuser family, you are the best! Thank you Kasey, Matthew and Tracy for meeting up with us and for all of your wonderful tips!

Travel // California Trip 2011 – Part 1

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I usually plan things out far in advance, but this year we made a quick decision that it was time to go on vacation and a week later, we had tickets to California. We are lucky to have great friends living in San Ramon that offered to let us stay with them.

We’ve been to the Bay Area before, but I feel like you can never do it all. This time around, I wanted to go to Sonoma, meet up with a couple Bay Area food bloggers and make plenty of time to spend with our friends. We ate some incredible food and I took lots of pictures. Some pictures were taken with my phone when I didn’t feel like toting our camera around. Let’s get started, shall we?

Sunday

Pho Kim Long

First, I must confess that I thought I was booking our trip from Saturday through Sunday, but at some point I took another look at our itinerary and noticed I booked the trip from Sunday through Sunday.  All of that toggling through dates did not serve me well.

Once we got over that sad fact, I knew I wanted to plan for eating things we cannot get in Michigan during our stay. I used Foodspotting to help guide me a bit because there are tons of great Foodspotters in the Bay Area.

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I’ve never had pho before, but when Marc was in Mountain View for a Google Conference a while back, he had pho that he really liked. I looked for pho in San Ramon, but most reviewers said there were better spots in San Jose or Mountain View.

We flew into San Jose and I saw that Pho Kim Long had a good pho reputation. Off we went. The place was packed! An energetic man greeted us and asked us how many were in our party. We responded with two and we were tacked onto a long table with other people enjoying steaming and delicious bowls of pho.

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Marc went with an adventurous beef and tendon pho while I went with chicken and egg noodles. We are seriously lacking in pearl drink options at home, so Chai Tea and Coconut were ordered, too.  The broth in my pho was complex and flavorful and I especially loved the fresh basil leaves and bean sprouts they brought out for garnish. My frozen coconut pearl drink was the best! Soft and chewy pearls like I’ve never had before and lots of fresh coconut flavor.

I wanted to try Marc’s broth, but he had already added a good dose of hot chili and I was afraid I would choke and cause a scene. Neither of us were crazy about the chai tea pearl drink, though. Our waitress didn’t say much and didn’t really appreciate questions, but we understood that they were just trying to get people in and out quickly.

House of Prime Rib

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Marc likes meat, a lot. Our friends know this and made reservations at the House of Prime Rib. We drove into San Francisco on our first night in California and the light was beautiful as the sun was fading. There was a contest in the car to see how low the temperature would go once we hit the city. It turned out that nobody won, because the temp dipped to a cool 62 degrees and below everyone’s guess.

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Inside the restaurant you’ll find wood, dim lighting, burgundy vests and perfect prime rib. When you receive the menu, you choose your cut of prime rib and then pick between creamed corn or spinach and mashed or loaded baked potato. If you get one of the larger cuts of prime rib, you are allowed seconds. My favorite part might be the trio of horseradish sauce. Mild, medium and straight horseradish is offered and medium is my choice.

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We went with our friends Kris, Kelly, Phil (Kelly’s brother) and their friend Ryan joined us there. Phil was determined to have seconds, but soon found himself with a case of the meat sweats. We laughed as the tip of hair became damp and his cheeks flushed. Our waiter was very amused, also. Check out that ridiculous stuffed potato! Our waiter said that one time a customer yelled at him and accused him of calling her a pig by serving something that monstrous.

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Monday

Pleasanton/Blue Agave Club

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We kept Monday open, so we could spend all day with our friends. Kelly suggested going to Plesanton with the kiddos to look at the little shops. We also planned on the Blue Agave Club for lunch and boy was I ready for some Mexican food with ripe California avocados.

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Lunch was fantastic! We all said that the guacamole was the best we’d ever had and agreed that the dollop of cool sour cream was a nice touch.

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We ate on the spacious patio under a unique tarp system set up for shade. It was a beautiful breezy afternoon with abundant sunshine. I ordered carnitas that were so good that Kelly declared she would be ordering them the next time they go. We spent the rest of the afternoon walking around the downtown area and stopped for a small scoop of ice cream to cool us off before heading back.

Tuesday

San Francisco

We’ve been to San Francisco a few times now, but I was even more excited for this time because I was meeting Kasey and Matthew from Turntable Kitchen and Tracy from Shutterbean! Kasey kindly made reservations at Contigo for that evening, so we headed into the city Tuesday afternoon with the intention of getting lunch and walking around the city.

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I wanted to hang around the Ferry Building for a while because I’d never lingered there before. I also saw a tip on Foodspotting that there were some great oysters to be had. Oysters sounded like a great light lunch option to save calories for our dinner later and The Hog Island Oyster Co. stood out online, so we went in search of the place.

There was an aisle way in front of the oyster place with a sign that said to head to the bar. To our left, there was a sign that said to wait for someone to seat you. We were confused by these conflicting messages and decided to wait and ask. We were whisked to a table by a very friendly waitress and given menus. I then realized we were at a completely different restaurant called Ferry Plaza Seafood.

Our waitress was very nice and when I said we were in the mood for oysters, she told us she would not be offended if we went next door, but told us about their fresh fish and oyster options. She was so friendly and welcoming that we decided to stay. This experience was another reminder that we would never do well on The Amazing Race.

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The view was pretty great, too. We split a dozen oysters and split the fresh local seabass. The fish was incredibly fresh with a simple olive oil, salt and pepper grilled preparation. Our phenomenal waitress asked if we were visiting and suggested some great things to do in the city. She thought a trip to Sausalito with the ferry was a good idea or shopping. The nice folks at the table nearby also recommended a trip to the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art.

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We couldn’t decide on which activity would be best with the last few hours before dinner, so naturally we headed to Ciao Bella for gelato while we contemplated. My cone had bourbon pecan vanilla and Lebanese yogurt inside. Marc was kind enough to hold it as I snapped this picture while the soft and boozy bourbon pecan dripped out of the bottom. Marc had a scoop of matcha tea gelato that was almost as good as mine.

We finally decided on the museum, but when we got there it had already closed. We were pretty close to the shopping area our waitress recommended and we decided to check it out. We slipped into Bloomingdales and were drawn to some fancy luggage. A sales associate, Michael, approached us and really tried to sell the heck out of the luggage. We weren’t really prepared to make that purchase while on vacation, but he was nice and interesting to talk to.

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Not wanting to be late for our dinner date, we started to head in the direction of the BART station and figured we had time for a stop at Tartine, which was on the way.

The stop nearest Tartine was a slightly sketchy part of town. It probably wouldn’t have been been so bad if we hadn’t witnessed two heated shouting matches along the way. We walked toward Tartine and the neighborhood improved quickly. I was surprised by how unassuming the outside of the bakery is. It was packed, even though it seemed like the best baked goods were available and consumed that morning.

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Marc chose some tender shortbread and I chose a fig tart. Both made for a sinful breakfast treat the next morning. We continued toward Contigo and our walk became quite scenic. We opted for the street nearest the park which was a steep uphill climb, but incredibly beautiful with a hazy fog hanging over the neighborhood.

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We saw Matthew and Kasey drive by as we walked to Contigo and a few minutes later we were inside and meeting each other for the first time. Our friendly waiter suggested a wonderful wine to us to get things started. Tracy came in a few minutes later and we all started chatting right away. Matthew thought the tasting menu would be best and we all agreed that would be a great way to sample everything.

I only have the one sad picture above from our dinner because it was very dark and I also wanted to spend as much time chatting with our new friends as possible. The little guy above was our first course, Wood Oven Monterey Sardine and Avocado Toast (with Pickled Onion and Smoked Salt). It was one of my favorite courses. I have Contigo’s menu pulled up and I’ll list what we tried that night.

We had Cucumber Salad with Cantabrian Anchovies (With House Made Mato Cheese, Cherry Tomatoes and Herbs), Monchego Cheese Wrapped with Jamon and topped with pepperoncini, Pimientos de Padron (Padron Peppers with Maldon Sea Salt), Patates Braves (Crispy Fried Potatoes with Allioli and Salsa Brava), and Calamars a la Planxa (Calamari over Squid Ink Risotto, Chorizo, Artichokes, Allioli and Guindilla Chile Oil). For dessert, Tracy had the brilliant idea to order churros with spicy chocolate dipping sauce. We left full and happy.

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The evening was so fun and went by entirely too fast. We hugged goodbye and Tracy was kind enough to give us a ride to the nearest BART station which we were very thankful for. It wasn’t too far away, but it stops running at a certain point and we didn’t want to inconvenience our friends if we were stranded, especially at close to midnight. When we arrived at the station, we only had to wait about 4 minutes for the next train, so it worked out perfectly.

Part 2 will be right up with our trip to Sonoma, a Scottish festival and more fantastic food.

Travel // Traverse City, Michigan

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Downtown Traverse City

Even though there are many places we’d love to visit, we have long wanted to go to Traverse City, Michigan. Since it is only a four hour drive from our home, it was easy to get around and investigate all of the great tips our friends and family offered. Traverse City shares the same climate as the Rhine region of Germany and produces wonderful Rieslings along with other fantastic wines. We enjoyed some wonderful dry Rieslings for those of you that find them too sweet for your taste. We had some bold reds, unique Rosé and fantastic Pinot Grigio and Pinot Noir. I’ve been to Napa Valley twice and loved it, but I was surprised to find that I overall liked the wines better from Traverse City. We came home with three cases full from all of the different wineries. Needless to say, I’m enjoying a glass right now. Two peninsulas sit just above Traverse City, Old Mission Peninsula and Leelanau Peninsula. The wineries are located in both areas, but we preferred the wine tour on Old Mission. The Leelanau Peninsula has a larger shoreline with other fun activities and charming towns that you can split into 2-3 day trips.

Traverse City is also considered a foodie town and we can now see why. Mario Batali appreciates what the area has to offer and has a summer home located on the Leelanau Peninsula. Several articles have been written about Traverse City’s rightful place among top foodie cities including a nomination for Bon Appétit’s 2010 list of America’s Foodiest Small Towns.

The thing that impressed me most about Traverse City is that each business has the right idea. They have a passion for supporting local businesses and they often collaborate to create great events for the community. Most restaurants feature local beer, wine, cheese and produce while the gift shops carry local preserves and handmade goodies. The small gourmet grocery store is doing all kinds of right by listening to their customers and supporting local all along the way. It was uplifting to see the support Traverse City has going for it.

Wineries

Old Mission Peninsula

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Peninsula Cellars-Old schoolhouse turned into a winery. Some of their wines have cute names like Homework and Detention.

Two Lads-Gorgeous modern building and grounds. Situated on a high bluff for great views. Knowledgeable staff that are excited about their wines. Wonderful experience.

Bower’s Harbor-Cozy tasting room with good wine. Owners have dogs that sometimes roam around the property.

Chateau Grand Traverse-Friendly and knowledgeable staff with great wine. The tasting room is a bit touristy for my taste, but the views outside are beautiful.

Chateau Chantal-Busy wine room, but wonderful wines. The outside is currently under construction, but you can still see how beautiful it is. You can stay at their bed and breakfast and they offer food and wine pairings along with a wine tour. Friends of ours stayed for their anniversary and had great things to say about the experience.

Brys Estate-Excellent wine at prices that reflect they know their wine is good. The tasting room is nice and all employees are dressed in black.

Shady Lane Cellars-Good wine in a beautiful stone building that used to be an old chicken coop. One of the most beautiful tasting rooms.

L. Mawby-Wonderful sparkling wines. We were shocked by how different this wine tasting was. We walked into “Pour Some Sugar On Me” playing on a the sound system and we were asked to start at the far end of the room and work our way back. We were able to try two sparkling wines for free and then if we wanted to try more, we were sent back to the front and for a small fee get two more wine choices with a snack of whitefish pâté or a goat cheese spread. The place was hopping! Lots of fun.

Leelanau Peninsula

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Leelanau Cellars-A bit of a drive north, but from what we hear, the largest producing winery in Michigan. Their wines were very drinkable and I imagine great for opening a bottle with friends. Beautiful bay views.

Boskydel-Like walking into someone’s personal garage. This retired school teacher is in his 80′s, but makes excellent French-style wines for very reasonable prices. His tasting room only accommodates 8 people.

Food

We loved the food here and it just seemed to get better and better. You can view iPhone pictures of almost everything we ate on Foodspotting.

Casual

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Omelette Shoppe-Local breakfast place with fresh bread and many great breakfast choices.

Greenhouse Cafe-Wonderful soup and salad. Marc had a reuben with cherry sauerkraut that was amazing!

Crema-Cute little cafe with soup, sandwiches, paninis, coffee, etc. I didn’t love my caprese salad, but Marc’s panini was quite good.

Dish Cafe-Our last lunch in TC. Great wraps, sandwiches and soup.

Apache Trout Grill-We had Sunday brunch here on the first sunny day of our vacation. It sits near the water and we had the best table. We were looking directly out onto the water through the slightly opened doors that let a cool breeze in. Gorgeous!

Jolly Pumpkin-So good, we went twice. A short drive up the Old Mission Peninsula with outstanding local food. Marc enjoyed their beer and they served wonderful dishes like pulled pork nachos, a warm and cheesy BLT with local creamery cheese and a snack board with local meats and cheeses. All excellent with top-notch wait staff.

Northpeak Brewery-Affiliated with Jolly Pumpkin and a few other establishments, this was our first dinner we had in Traverse City. Marc had pizza and I had a delicious pretzel coated chicken sandwich. Great casual atmosphere.

Boone’s Prime Time Pub-Small local restaurant in Sutton’s Bay up a little way on the Leelanau peninsula. Fantastic burgers and friendly people. You can tell the locals come here.

Fine Dining

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Amical-This French-inspired restaurant was recommended to us and we thought it was good. I thought the portions were small for the price, but since we had been stuffing ourselves, this did not leave us hungry. I heard that it is a better deal during lunch time where the same food is offered at cheaper prices. We sat on the outdoor patio and soon after, a loud bunch of people in town for a conference were seated to fill the rest of the patio. Yes, I know this tidbit because we probably heard every conversation they were having. This put a damper on our romantic dinner and taxed our poor waitress, but the food was still good.

Hanna Bistro-Lovely restaurant. Atmosphere is great and the wait staff was attentive and knowledgeable. We chose soup and salad because once again, we hadn’t felt hunger since arriving in Traverse City. They offer olive oil and aged balsamic vinegar from Fustini’s down the street and local teas. We also tried the cracker jack sundae with homemade cracker jack topped with ice cream and salted caramel. Heaven!

Trattoria Stella-I saved the best for last. We stopped in for lunch one afternoon and had the most delicious food for under $20 and had to come back for the dinner experience. Our last night in Traverse City we went all out and had the burrata appetizer (made by the chef now after importing it for a while), the most outstanding fresh pappardelle pasta dish with cabbage, spinach and tarragon cream and for the entree I had salmon and Marc had duck. Did I mention the bread? I have had some bad focaccia in my day and rarely seek it out, but this focaccia has changed my mind completely. It was thick and spongy inside with an herb crust on the outside. Everything here was fantastic and it was probably the finest meal we’ve ever had.

Things To Do

Tasty Morsel Culinary Excursion

TastyMorsels Fustinis

We decided to do this tour the first full day we were in town to help us get acquainted with the city. It is a three hour walking tour of what downtown Traverse City has to offer. The main street is called Front Street and we stayed mostly on this street and just beyond it. The rain poured and poured all day and we were soaked from the knee down, but we still had fun. Lisa and Gigi shared their city knowledge as we made stops along the way. We stopped into the Grand Traverse Pie Company, Cherry Republic, Morsels, The Chocolate Den, Fustini’s Oils and Vinegars, Burritt’s Fresh Market and Right Brain Brewery. Every stop was fun, but Burritt’s and Right Brain were the highlights for us.

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Burritt’s-Ken, the owner, talked with us about his business philosophy and he knows what he’s talking about. Customer service is number one and his employees write down every request their customers have. The store is not very large, but he is doing some outstanding things. There is a Spanish olive oil that he carries for $20 a bottle and one day he decided to ask if they carry that olive oil in a larger amount. He now gets a 55 gallon drum of it and pours it himself into bottles so he can offer it to his customers for $10 a bottle. They have a great selection of fresh fish, cheese and wine and make great dips including their famous whitefish pâté. Many of his employees have worked there for years and they are all trained in every aspect of the store. A great place!

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Right Brain Brewery-We also had a great time at Right Brain Brewery. It was our last stop on the tour and I am not a beer drinker, but we were able to taste their selection and I did enjoy their Strawberry Fields beer. They also had a Big Pink watermelon beer that I liked, too. It tasted like watermelon rind and I loved the unique flavor. We enjoyed our beer flights while drying off and when Lisa and Gigi left, Marc and I played a few games of darts and enjoyed the cool atmosphere. Russ, the owner is a hairstylist that started brewing as a hobby and he eventually opened up the brewery behind his salon. He recently sold the salon to someone else and continues to brew unique beers for his growing business. They don’t serve food, but have snacks from local companies that you can purchase. We ordered some beers during happy hour and snacked on cherry chipotle pretzels that were great. Right Brain Brewery beertender John O’Hearn created the amazing art piece of the older gentleman above. It’s made from small plastic pegs to create the overall design. There were several of his pieces around the brewery and they added to the great vibe. It was a great afternoon.

Canoe/Kayak/Tubing on Platte River

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I thought we would be canoeing, but Marc signed us up for the tandem kayak. It sat in the water nice and low, but the paddling left us with soaked pants. We did the Lower Platte 2 hour trip and it was calm with beautiful views of the lake. The salmon were just started to move and there were a few fisherman we had to maneuver around. A fun activity to help burn some of the food calories. We brought a picnic lunch of items we picked up from Burritt’s Market.

Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive

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This beautiful stretch of road is about 7 miles long and takes you around to 12 lookout points. We saw sand dunes, small lakes and the vastness of great lake Michigan. Wonderful views with great picture opportunities.

Leland

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Cute little fish town on the water with lots of charming shops to visit. The people in each shop were so friendly and we ended up purchasing some nice items here. Beautiful views of the water.

The Village at Grand Traverse Commons

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Believe it or not, this area used to be the state’s largest mental hospital. With the help of a visionary, this large property is turning into a little community. The renovation is only about 25% complete, but boasts housing from an affordable $100,000 to a steep $1,000,000. A little market is set up with coffee shops and small businesses. There are separate buildings that have been turned into bakeries, restaurants and one is home to Left Foot Charley, a winery. One large building is currently undergoing renovation and will become a church and banquet area for couples to be married in this desirable spot. We were amazed by what has been done with these buildings that might be vacant or torn down.  A great success story.

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We had a relaxing time and if you’re ever looking to visit Michigan or if you live in Michigan and have never made it to Traverse city, I recommend going. If you need any more motivation, apparently Bill Murray has been.

Travel // Charleston, South Carolina

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Marc and I spent 3 lovely days in Charleston, SC for our anniversary. I had always wanted to go, but had no idea how charming and beautiful Charleston was. Our accommodations were at Two Meeting Street, a lovely Bed and Breakfast that spoiled us completely. The cherry on the sundae was that Charleston offered the most amazing food. Here’s the run-down on where we stayed, what we did and what we ate.

Accommodations

Two Meeting Street Inn B&B

This place was amazing! The house was built in 1892 as a wedding gift from father to daughter. Daddy even had the insight to purchase the land across the street and adjacent to the water so that his daughter would never have an obstructed view of the water. How nice! For the couple’s 5th wedding anniversary, the husband gave his bride stained glass windows that were created by his college roommate. Lucky for them, his roommate was a guy named Louis C. Tiffany. Heard of him?

When we first checked in, it was a blistering 100 degrees outside, but cool and quiet inside. Joanne greeted us with a huge smile and offered us some ice cold peach ice tea. We stayed in the Blue Room on the 3rd floor and we loved it. It was charming, spotless and had a nice little hallway as part of the room and its own nicely size bathroom. There was a refrigerator right outside our room where they kept it stocked with bottled water. Every morning we enjoyed a delicious hot breakfast with fresh fruit, but my favorite part of the day was 4:30 pm, tea time! The ladies at the Inn created a small buffet of dips and mini desserts and offered their delicious peach iced tea, lemonade and hot tea. We made sure our adventures always took us back to Two Meeting Street at 4:30ish so we could enjoy treats and a cold beverage on their large porch. The staff was so helpful and offered recommendations for dinner, other Charleston activities and were more than happy to make reservations for anything we wanted to do. They even had menus for many of the restaurants in the area, which turned out to be very handy. We can’t say enough nice things about our stay.

Two Meeting Street

On the Go in Charleston

King Street

Our first full day in Charleston I asked Marc if we could go to King Street where they have a long row of shops. Many of the shops are the ones you can see at home like J.Crew, Banana Republic, etc., but amoung them you can find some unique shops and a few antique stores. One store in particular was called Luna and I believe it has two locations. It reminds me of a shop in downtown Holland that I like to go into.  King Street was fun to behold, even if it’s silly to go to the Banana Republic when you were just there a few days earlier in your hometown. Sorry, honey!

King Street

Jewelry Shop

Heyward/Washington House

Another wonderful thing about Charleston is that there are house museums everywhere and they are among regular residences. I am fascinated by how these homes all blend together. This museum house was recommended by one of the ladies at Two Meeting Street and it was an interesting place to visit. It was built by Daniel Heyward in 1772 for his son, Thomas Heyward, Jr., a signer of the Declaration of Independence. President George Washington stayed at the home for a short time in 1791 and it was dubbed the Heyward/Washington House. The tour is not long, but our tourguide, Rosemary, was very nice and knowledgable. The house is fun to look at and there is a nice collection of period furniture inside if you really dig that. You end the tour in the back of the house where a lovely garden is kept up by the garden club and you get a nice view of the steeple from St. Michael’s church. Not too shabby!

Heyward/Washington House-Back

Heyward/Washington Inside

The Schoonerpride

“I’m on a boat!” I kid, I kid.  That SNL skit seems to be the thing to quote for the summer of 2009. Marc loves boats. He talks often about getting one someday. While I enjoy a boatride, I don’t have any desire to maintain one. What can I say? I’m a practical gal. Marc and I took a sunset cruise on our honeymoon in the Turks and Caicos and we both loved it, so boatrides are our “thing” on vacation, I guess. As soon as I saw this boat online, I knew Marc would want to go. It was nice and relaxing and we got some great shots while the sun went down. There is no narrated tour as I thought there might be, but it was nice anyway. We sat by the cutest family from North Carolina that had the best behaved little girls! They apologized several times for us having to sit by them, but really, they were lovely. They served beer, wine and snacks on the boat (for a charge), but we held out to go to a bar/restaurant for drinks and an appetizer later.

Sunset and Boat

Drayton Hall

Drayton Hall is only 1 of 3 plantations that were not set on fire during the war. It is also the only one open to the public. I love that no plumbing or electricity was added to the home and we were able to view it in its almost original state. One of the rooms has only been painted 5 times over the years. This home was in the Drayton family from 1738 until 1974 and then purchased by the National Trust. The property is very pretty and sits on the Ashley River. Since it is run by the National Trust, this home is still being researched to uncover its rich history and they haven’t turned it into some sort of cheesy tourist trap. Our tour guide was very knowledgable and made sure to add a disclaimer if the information he was sharing was legend or if they were still researching it. I really appreciated that. If you are looking to view a piece of almost undisturbed history, Drayton Hall is the great place to go.

Drayton Hall Front

Drayton Hall Inside

Food, Oh the Food!

Slightly North of Broad (S.N.O.B)

On our first night in Charleston, we were dressed casually from the drive and we didn’t feel like getting all dressed up. The ladies at Two Meeting Street brought out menus to browse while we had our afternoon munchies. We decided on Hank’s Seafood because it came highly recommended and it is one of the few nice restaurants where button-up shirts and long pants are not required. Our friends at the B&B set up the reservation and also arranged for a rickshaw to come and pick us up. This was a special treat. We used the rickshaws each evening while in Charleston to get to our destination on time, but then leisurely walked back along the battery at the end of the night. For $4.50 each, you get a lovely bike ride from guys that know the area well. We got to Hank’s and unfortunately there was a mix-up with our reservation. They kindly offered a seat at the community table or bar, but since we would be spending a pretty good amount, I wasn’t sure I wanted to do that. Can I just take a minute on the community table, here? I think they are an awesome idea, especially for a town that has busy restaurants each night. They had them in almost every restaurant in South Carolina. It’s a large table surrounded by chairs, usually near the bar area. If you’re not picky about your neighbor, you can get seats right away. However, on our first night I really wanted to sit at our own table (this trip was suppose to be romantic, after all). We luckily stumbled onto Slightly North of Broad and got a table right away. Our waiter knew the menu quite well and offered his suggestions. When he told me the Mahi Mahi hadn’t been out of the water 12 hours my decision was made! Marc went with the Rack of Lamb. We both enjoyed our very fresh meals and splurged on a piece of  Sour Cream Apple Pie with Vanilla Ice Cream. It was heavenly. Our waiter also brought mini fudge brownies with the check. I was so full, but I had to try them out and they were SO good. Luckily we had a bit of a hike back to burn them off.

Slightly North of Broad

Jim ‘n’ Nicks BBQ

While walking on King Street on our first full day in Charleston, hunger hit us pretty quickly. There were many restaurants to choose from and while Marc and I try to avoid chain restaurants when we travel, this place was not in Michigan and looked like the reasonably-priced place we were looking for. Our waitress may be inducted into The Guiness Book of World Records for saying y’all more times consecutively than anyone else, ever. She was friendly, though, and attentive. It was obvious that we should order barbecue. I looked at the lunch menu and rejoiced in seeing a 6 next to the item I wanted and this 6 did not have a 2 or 3 in front of it, what a deal! I ordered the Open-Face Pork BBQ Sandwich. Marc, not to be outdone, ordered the Baby Back Ribs. Both of us enjoyed the food and the barbecue sauce was quite delicious. Mini corn muffins also came to the table and those were a welcomed treat as well. Looking at the menu again online makes me wish I would have tried their collard greens (so sad I didn’t try southern collards) and their lemonade and sweet tea is probably very delicious.  So much food, so little time.

Jim 'n' Nicks BBQ

East Bay Meeting House

On a tip from a friend, we ended up here after our Schooner Pride boatride. We hadn’t eaten since 4:30 tea time, so we wanted a little something to go with our nightcap. I called to ask if the kitchen was open and for some reason I could barely hear what he was saying, but heard in his voice that he sounded friendly and off we went. Embarrassed that I had just called and acted like I had heard everything perfectly, we went to the coffee shop area (yeah, coffee shop, the front has coffee and the back is a sweet little bar lounge) and asked the girl if the kitchen was open. Almost instantly, a guy perked his head up out of nowhere (I swear) and asked if I had just called. I sheepishly admitted to the phone call and apologized for not being able to hear him. After that, us and our buddy Bleu (the bartender) were best friends. Bleu said the kitchen had just closed, but because it was pretty slow he would whip up whatever we wanted! Aww, great guy. I ordered the Smoked Salmon appetizer and the Chocolate Mousse to split with Marc. The salmon was soooo good. Yes, we were hungry, but it hit the spot perfectly. It was served with water crackers, red onion, capers, cucumber, roasted red pepper and cream cheese. Marc said the Gin and Tonics he was serving up were pretty great, too. When he brought out the mousse, I was surprised to see it was wrapped in white and dark chocolate and looked like a ganache covered mini cake. Bleu pointed out that on the top in white chocolate was a little cameo! We quickly got out our camera and grabbed a shot of it while Bleu laughed at us from behind the bar. We are such tourists. He encouraged us to stay as long as we liked and we decided to take him up on it. We moved from the cafe table to the bar and he created the most delicious drink I have ever had with ginger cognac. He told me he had drink ESP and I can’t argue with that. We ended up making a few friends at the bar and closed the place down! We never, never do this, but we had so much fun with the nice people there.  A great place that I highly recommend for a nightcap, lunch or coffee.

East Bay Meeting House Mousse

FIG (Food Is Good) Yes, it is!

After much debate about picking the restaurant for our final night in Charleston, we chose FIG. They have a seasonally-inspired menu with a commitment to using local and sustainable food. We got a bit dressed up and took a little rickshaw ride over. The place isn’t very big, but it has a warm, modern feel to it. Looking at the cocktail menu online makes me wish I would have tried one. They have retro cocktails! I guess we’ll have to go back for those. Marc did try their Mint Julep and I took a delicious sip. I went with sweet tea and it was perfectly refreshing and not too sweet at all. A girl with a large basket of fresh bread comes around and they served it with whipped butter. We decided to split an appetizer and although Heirloom Tomato Salad looked great, we compromised our tastes with Lamb Bolognese Ricotta Gnocci with Buffalo Mozzarella. I am usually not a fan of the gnocci, but this was melt in your mouth light and really wonderful. For dinner, I went with the Salmon with Rapini Pesto and Marc went with the Fish Stew en Cocotte. Everything was unbelievably fresh and tasty. Marc’s dish came in a little cast iron pot. For dessert we went with a Poached Peach with Blackberries and Vanilla Ice Cream. The only adjective I can muster is fresh! A fantastic feast. Sorry I have no pics for this place, but they have some very nice pictures on their website.

Thanks for sharing the journey to Charleston with me! It’s a lovely and romantic place. Oh, I almost forgot! Charleston’s food has really inspired me, so I recently purchase the Lee Bros. Cookbook, (AH-mazing) as well as Charleston Receipts Repeats, (what they used to call recipes) and Party Receipts. I have only made it through the Drinks section of the Lee Bros. Cookbook and I’m already in love. I hope to add some of these Charleston favorites (and new favorites) into my cooking adventures.